It’s springtime on the Amalfi Coast and this is my first year in six that I am not there to soak up the rays of the sun from under a canopy of periwinkle wisteria or enjoy the headiness of it jasmine-scented breezes. And while the lush island paradise of Capri is technically not part of the Amalfi Coast, its beauty still echoes in the heart and soul. It’s a paradise unlike any other. It’s also the perfect time of year to enjoy some Sunday soul on Capri, to power down from life and really focus on you.
Sail to Capri aboard one of the many ferries from Sorrento or Naples (It’s still too early in the season to take a boat from Positano). You step onto this lush floral wonderland in Marina Grande and it’s up to you whether to go right to the artsy neighborhood of Anacapri or left to the Funicolare up to the top. The choices are as varied as the bougainvillea blooms which color your path.
Anacapri offers a quiet, laid back village for a leisurely stroll. Explore the wonderful Villa San Michele with its winding gardens which lead to panoramic, terraced vistas. Venture off the beaten path to Anacapri’s residential area, away from the maddening crowds, and grab a seat at a fountain (don’t forget to bring your lunch because a simple slice of Caprese cake and a cappuccino can cost $20 on this island). There are plenty of colorful churches if you are seeking a solo spot to meditate. Depending on traffic, it takes a good half hour to get back to the port by bus, so plan ahead and leave yourself enough free time to sit on the free beach alongside the bus depot. Don’t forget your towel!
Practically any spot along the sea offers dreamy views of the Bay of Naples, where the aqua water meets the sky on a horizon of robin’s egg blue. Yet, there are special spots which simply cannot be missed for the solo traveler hoping to reflect on the day, on life, on la dolce vita. The Augustus Gardens is another such spot. You need to take the Funicolare up to the Piazzetta and then it’s just a short walk.
Wind your way along the entry path lined with statues of Roman gods and goddesses and make your way to the top, where a bench is the perfect perch at the edge of the cliff. For a real challenge, you can always tackle the walk along Via Krupp, a serpentine path descending 328 feet (100 meters) to the sea. Just remember, what goes down must come up and Via Krupp has been closed from time to time off season.
Enjoy your bit of Sunday soul on Capri…a day you will always hold in your heart!