Mangia Monday visits Barbetta, NYC’s Landmark Restaurant

The Maioglio Family must be doing something right to stay in business in the same location in NYC for more than a century.  Their Italian restaurant “Barbetta” has been the grande dame of The Big Apple’s Restaurant Row on West 46th Street for decades.   Toscanini and Puccini both dined there.  In fact, it’s the oldest restaurant in New York City to be owned by its founding family and was the first restaurant in America to be honored by Locali Storici d’Italia with landmark status.  Locali Storici’s mission is to preserve and promote the historical venues, hotels and restaurants which play an important role in Italy’s culture.  The honor assures that Barbetta’s interior may never be changed, right down to the 1631 harpsichord which greets you upon entering.

The picturesque courtyard at Barbetta

Barbetta is housed in the 19th century Maioglio-Astor Townhouses, where it has been since its opening in 1906.  There is the elegant dining room with soft pink walls and chandeliers for those foul weather or winter days.  Yet, how can you resist their lovely courtyard on a perfect spring, summer or even early autumn evening?

I have been there numerous times throughout the years and NYC’s Restaurant Week makes the visit all the more enjoyable.  All participating restaurants serve a three-course prix fixe dinner for $35 and Barbetta definitely offers value.  I started with “Garganelli in a tomato basil sauce,” and although I forgot to request that it be cooked al dente, the penne-like pasta was cooked to perfection.  The menu is supposed to be authentic Piemontese, yet the “Broiled Atlantic Salmon in an herbed sauce with cucumbers” could’ve been from anywhere.  The fish was on the salty side for salmon and there didn’t seem to be anything too Italian in its presentation.  In fact, I found it a bit disappointing having had such memorable meals in the past.

I went healthy for dessert and selected the pears poached in red wine.  That was the highlight of the meal, even though I was quite tempted to also try the bittersweet chocolate mousse which looked yummy.  Sadly, the restaurant was not that busy for a summer night in the city.  It’s a commentary on these touch economic times but even with reasonable prix fixe menus and discounted offerings, such as Barbetta’s 10% discount off the bill with presentation of a same-day theater ticket, they are obviously struggling as are all city eateries.  Fortunately, The Maioglio Family is resilient and will hopefully weather this economic storm to survive “a cent-anni,” to another hundred years.