As a rabid movie fan, Capri has always been the romantic isle of Hollywood magic for me. Just think about September Affair, It Started in Naples or Contempt. My vivid imagination thinks about Sophia Loren walking the hills of Capri with dozens of drooling men trailing behind her – isn’t that every woman’s Italian fantasy? OK, snap out of it. This is 2009 and Italian men no longer drool after beautiful women like children following the Pied Piper.
Now, back to Capri – the only reasonable method of arrival is by boat from Naples or Sorrento. Oh sure, you can fly there but who has that kind of lire? (Scusi, I mean Euro) My journey to Capri, literally, was in stages, from the moment I landed in Rome. There is the hustle and bustle of any big city but then you head south and as you do, you feel the knot in the back of your neck ease. The road opens before you and once you are a good hour outside of Rome, there comes a moment on the Autostrada where the mountains just open before you. I have driven that road many times and it still takes my breath away each time I hit that mark at a glorious 140 kph.
Sorrento is the port-o-call for most tourists headed to Capri and you can catch a ferry or hydrofoil from the marina at the bottom of Piazza Tasso. It’s a steep walk down from the piazza but if the walk bothers you – then be prepared for what’s waiting for you on Capri…..hills and nothing but hills.
On the boat, you are surrounded by noisy tourists and wannabees hoping to be discovered by the paparazzi, but you will soon lose them on the dock of Marina Grande; just live in the moment. There is a different energy once you step onto Capri. Depending on your interests, wants and needs, you can mingle in the busy tourist section of over-priced haute couture shops and trattorias or you can climb……..and the higher you climb, the more people you leave behind.
After the obligatory visit to the Grotta Azzurra, I chose to hop right on the Funicolare, or cable car, for my next adventure. I am not into crowds and I just knew that I had to make my escape to the top. Spring is when things come alive on the island and the high-priced shops are just starting to “flavor” their windows. The Funicolare deposits you in una Piazzetta, Piazza Umberto. There is a breathtaking view just outside the cable car station and a post office straight ahead on the left (get the postcards out of the way first). However, the BEST tip I would offer would be to avoid the first restaurant you come to; it’s on the right – you can’t miss it but avoid it like the plague. It is so overpriced as to be laughable (20 euro or about $30 for a cappuccino and a slice of Capri cake).
Walking is the only real way to experience a new environment and Capri in the spring is like walking through God’s garden. There simply is no other way to describe the side streets covered in mimosa and bougainvillea; archways draped in wisteria; and jasmine that dots the hillside. Grab a picnic basket of bread, cheese and prosciutto crudo and a bottle of your favorite vino and then try to find Via Tragara. It leads to Via Pizzolungo, 
which creeps its way along the northern side of the island, leading you toward the Faraglioni. There are benches along the cliff walk, some natural and some man made, offering many spots to sit and drink in the view. It’s intoxicating on a sunny day but can be quite melancholy on a lonely winter day. I managed to spend most of my first visit walking the Pizzolungo and not regretting one second of it. I figure there are plenty of rainy days to go explore churches and museums so why waste God’s sunlight by going inside?
A lunch treat was a surprise find at the Villa Brunella, a small boutique hotel right on the Via Tragara. Their restaurant, Terrazza Brunella, charges you a hefty coperto (cover charge) just to sit at a table, in addition to whatever you order from the menu. However, the view is well worth it…….and so is the lemon risotto.
Just know that if you veer off the main path you will find yourself in a maze of side passageways not wide 
enough for a mule. It may scare more timid explorers but this is Capri and the whole island is only slightly over 10 square kilometers, so live a little. Practically everyone on the island speaks English so ask for directions but be prepared to get lost.
Today, as I sit at my desk on an overcast day in New York, just thinking about Capri puts a smile on my face and lights up the memories that live in my heart. You can find romance on Capri. There’s even a section called Paradiso. Go live your dream.
Ciao Lisa! Lovely post and photos! Looks like we are both dreaming of Capri today…. sigh…