When I was a kid, we lived across the street from the Lebanese ambassador to the U.N. I thought that would be the closest I would ever get to Beirut. As a westerner, it always sounded like a city full of danger and intrigue, almost as mysterious as the Casbah. Yet, in travel writing you come across all sorts of nomads with varying interests and one such woman with wanderlust is Sue Pownall over at Pownall Chronicles.
Adventure awaits women with wanderlust outside Beirut, Lebanon at the ruins of Baalbek
Actually, what first drew me to Sue’s blog was the striking photo of an Arab woman she had featured on her site a few months ago. It sort of draws you in, much the same way as Sue’s warm and friendly personality.
Sue is a British woman by birth who has traveled the world, from South Korea, Spain and Italy to now residing in Oman, which she tells me is like a five-star beach resort (I just may have to visit her!). She first tapped her toe into the Middle East by visiting Jordan. “I was concerned about being a single-Western woman traveling alone. However, it felt perfectly safe and partially led to me moving to Oman,” Sue says. She has since been to the United Arab Emirates and Bahrain, all without great difficulty, but understands how some women might hesitate to venture to this part of the world. She attributes that to cultural differences and not knowing when to lay off the skimpy summer clothing in public.
On this recent trip to Beirut, Sue not only walked in the footsteps of her Mom, who had been there before the civil war, but also ventured away from the city to the ancient ruins of Baalbek. But I wanted to know what the nightlife was like, so we got into this Beirut cyber Q & A:
Q: Do you speak Arabic or do many of the people in Beirut speak English?
SP: To my shame, I do not speak Arabic or French, but everyone from the Lebanese taxi drivers upwards spoke some English.
Q: What are the streets like at night for women?
SP: I stayed in Hamra, which is a popular area of Beirut for visitors as it has many shops, bars and restaurants, and I felt fine walking around there. I had read reports of bag snatching, so kept my handbag tightly held, despite my friend dismissing the idea. Although I did not go to a club alone, I did go out for dinner. I walked from my hotel looking for somewhere I fancied to eat in, and as a single woman did not feel in any threat. Of course, common sense in any city has to be applied such as avoiding unlit, unpopulated streets, but I found Beirut felt safer than many UK towns at night.
Q: So what was the night-life like?
SP: My friend and I visited White, which is a rooftop bar and club.
Q: How did it different from clubbing in London, for example?
SP: Although I have been out clubbing in London, this was my first time on a guest-list to get in anywhere. So for me, it was a unique experience. Besides, in how many clubs can you sit or dance under the stars, whilst admiring the city skyline? I could have spent the whole evening either staring at the view or people watching. The downside was that like most clubs worldwide, the drinks were expensive, but the club DJ played great music and there was plenty of room to dance after tables were cleared away from the early diners.
Q: Do they stay out late in Beirut?
SP: Absolutely, the Lebanese know how to party. For example, White is open until 4:00 am, 7 days a week from May through to October.
Q: What about a woman navigating the streets at night?
SP: The roads are busy, even in the middle of the night, so you have to be careful when crossing, but taxis are safe to take.
Lebanon, a nation of contrasts
“Lebanon is an unsettled country, but as there weren’t any problems after the recent elections, so it is a good sign for the future. My Lebanese friend recommended I buy a plane ticket that allowed for cancellation, and I would pass that advice on to anyone considering visiting there,” Sue says. “Regeneration of Beirut continues, and it is a beautiful, vibrant city. Furthermore, I have seen many ruins in my travels, but the ruins at Baalbek to the northwest of Lebanon still made me go “WOW” as they are so awesome. My last piece of advice would be to not worry and visit this country.“
