Women Traveling Solo in and around Athens

“Yassou.” Buona primavera a tutti. A good spring to all.
Now that my favorite season has arrived my wanderlust is grabbing hold. It seems each year at this time I am inspired to travel to the land of the ancients, Pompeii, Herculaneum, the Acropolis, Delphi, Stonehenge. The ancient myths create a romantic vision in my over-active imagination and I soar to flights of fancy.

Two years ago, the Catholic and Orthodox Easter fell on the same Sunday. It’s a rare occurrence (it happens again next year on April 4, 2010) but it offered an opportunistic time to visit Athens, home of Poseidon and Athena………..and my childhood fantasy destination, the Acropolis.

I did my research and learned that since the Greek high tourist season does not start until May 1st, the ferries to nearby islands might be sporadic and since I was going to visit on Easter weekend, many tourist attractions might well be closed. That was not the case at all. Italians and Greeks take their bank and religious holidays very seriously and if you can manage to visit during one such holiday, you will likely find yourself enjoying free admission to all of the ancient sites. What a perk! I could spend a whole day in Athens and another at Delphi, and even toss in a drive to Sounion, and not pay one euro for admission. Woo Hoo!

The best advice I can possibly offer is to visit Matt Barrett’s Athens Guide before making any reservations. Matt is so knowledgeable and quite helpful on personal contact. He provided insight and more importantly my connection to George the Famous Greek Taxi Driver. George and his team are a Greek gem to women traveling solo. First of all, George speaks English in a land where everything is written in cryptic Greek. Athens TaxiHe picks you up at the airport and brings you to your chosen destination on time. Further, George goes the extra mile if you want to book a solo tour to go driving off into the countryside. His driver, Dmitri, was not only a great driver but a welcome lunch companion when you are traveling alone. Believe me, traveling in a Mercedes, albeit a yellow one because all Athens taxis are yellow, beats riding in a tour bus with a sweaty mob.

You have to understand how long I wanted to visit the Acropolis to know how much I was looking forward to this trip. I am not Greek by heritage (Italian through and through) but from the moment I saw a photo of the Parthenon, before I entered grade school, it was a destination I had to go to. From the incredible architecture to its historic place in the development of Western Society, the Acropolis is just amazing.

Where are the Greek gods?
Where are the Greek gods?

Getting there is an easy walk from almost anywhere in the center of Athens but I suggest you hop on the subway because that offers you a prelude to what you might expect on your journey.

As the city dug out its subway system in anticipation of the
summer Olympics in 2004, excavators found relics and statuary dating back thousands of years. These items are now beautifully displayed in each of the subway stops. It’s as though you are traveling through a time tunnel, quite literally.

Also, don’t be put off by the stray dogs you see walking throughout the city. The dogs of Athens may give the city an image problem, making it look like a ghetto, but they are harmless and have free reign to walk where they please, even in the heart of Constitution Square, just outside the Parliament building.

I decided to stay in Constitution Square because of its central location but more importantly because it was home to the Hotel Grande Bretagne.

A room with a view
A room with a view

My new travel philosophy is “go big or stay home.” Well, the Grande Bretagne fit the bill because my room was nearly $500/nite (mama mia!)………but hey, I had a terrace view of the Acropolis and ate breakfast each morning at the rooftop restaurant, gazing at the Parthenon. I was only in Athens for 3 days but glad the Bretagne was my home. The room was breathtaking, marble floor to ceiling in the bathroom, a walk-in shower and a deep-soaking tub, I could’ve slept in it.

A bathroom fit for royalty
A bathroom fit for royalty

The hotel boasts not one but two wonderful restaurants and a staff that left a plate of huge, chocolate Easter eggs in my room on Saturday night. They were friendly and accommodating and the Bretagne’s only flaw was Helga (assumed name) in the Spa. She beat me up. I actually left with bruises. Word to the wise – don’t mess with Greek women carrying massage oil! LOL

My first visit to Greece lasted only three days but at nearly 800 words here I still have so much to say and even more to see. Tune in next time for my visits to the ancient sites. “Giasou.”

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